Zimbabwe part 1: Great Zimbabwe and Chipangali
Door: Nayan Heijmans
Blijf op de hoogte en volg Nayan
15 September 2016 | Zimbabwe, Masvingo
After we woke up in the hotel next to the border we drove to the border post. There they stamped our passports and after inspection of our car we were allowed to leave. We drove a bit further to the Zimbabwe border post. Here we had to buy a visa with the dollars we had bought. The guy told us (in English, finally again) that we had to pay US$30 each for the visa, US$45 plus US$10 for the temporary import of the car. This would bring the total amount of dollars we had to pay to US$115, while we only had US$80; from which we thought they were fake.
Luckily for us, these officials were very friendly and helpful (which was a complete opposite of when we were entering Mozambique.) The visa official told us we could also pay the visa with South African Rand (450 rand for 1 visa.) We still had some dollars left (after telling the hotel lady we only had 200 rand), but it was 400. So we took all the coins (we always put the coins in the middle console of the car) and gathered 50 rand worth of coins. Happily we handed over the bills and coins but after a while the official said they didn’t accept coins. Then he told us that a colleague was going to South Africa and he still had a bill of 50 rand, so he was kind enough to change it for our coins. This way we could pay one visa with rand, so we only had to pay the rest in US dollars (85).
Luckily they accepted our US$80. As you probably have calculated yourself, we were still US$5 short. With no more dollars, only a couple of rand in coins, the last resort that we had were 350 Meticals (US$4,50 or something) or two bills of €5, so one way or another we would make it. Then another official said that he would take the 350 Meticals from us and give us a US$5 bill, if we would take his female friend with us, to the next town (180km.) So we agreed with this official and we finished the last of our Meticals as well.
The two border posts had cost us 2 hours, but we could finally continue our road trip into Zimbabwe.
The girl (named Caro) we had to take with us was friendly and we talked about all kind of things. She liked traveling as well, specially to the United Arabic Emirates and she was going to do some study in the UK. Caro also told us that it could well be possible that we were the only ones crossing that border post on that particular day. That explained why the first 140km were sand roads as well, but all in good condition.
When we dropped Caro at the crossing, she had another 150km to hitchhike in the direction where we were not heading. We continued our way to the Great Zimbabwe Monument. The plan was to visit this place and continue straight after to Bulawayo, to visit a project (Chipangali) of my internship company. This would take us a total of 10-hour drive and give us 1-2 hours to spend at the Great Zimbabwe Monument. However with the 2-hour delay at the border we would have to make a stop between Great Zimbabwe Monument and Chipangali.
Finally we arrived at the Great Zimbabwe Monument and we took a guide (named Lovemo) to show us around and actually learn something about this World Heritage Site. This seemed a very smart move, since he told us a lot about it. For example Zimbabwe means Great (Zi) House(mba) of Stone(bwe). The Great Zimbabwe Monument was once (11th-15th century) a big flourishing city of 25.000 citizens. The wealthiest king who lived there during its golden area had 200 wifes! (damn, I can’t even handle one wife.) Kings here get compared with mountains; so this king truly was a mountain. Lovemo explained to us why houses were always made of stray. First of all it was to prevent evil spirits to get stuck in the corners of a house. Secondly it was so it could deflect the wind more easy. Lastly, round things are seen as harmonious and equality, everybody in the family is equal. The site also contained a (created) village, to show how the people lived back then. Here we could (of course) buy souvenirs and have the locals showed a dance. We watched it and François even joined the dance.
The royal and other buildings were made out of stone bricks without the use of any form of cement. So they are lying lose on top of each other and a lot is still standing there today, centuries later.
After we finished our tour Lovemo asked us if we wanted to have dinner in the ghetto of Masvingo and sleep in the tentcamp of Great Zimbabwe Monument. Since it was already 17:00 we couldn’t get much further anyhow. Therefor we decided to accept Lovemo’s offer. We went to the ghetto to have a US$1 dinner, then he took us to a bar and afterwards to a club. After some beers, Lovemo appeared to be a really good dancer. While we had to be in Bulawayo already, we had a really good night with Lovemo in Masvingo. The next day early I spoke with our (only) neighbour who already packed his stuff and was heading for vic falls. It was a Danish fellow of almost 50 and he was traveling alone with a nice looking old-timer and tent. After the conversation, we packed our tent (with a hangover) at around 8 and we continued our way to Bulawayo.
After a couple of hours drive we arrived at the Chipangali Wildlife Orphanage. This is a project, which has a partnership with my internship company. I had promised my boss that we would take some pictures here, to improve the part of website about Chipangali. In return we would get free accommodation. Upon arrival we got a tour from Nicky, the wife of Kevin. This friendly couple owned the wildlife orphanage and they got it from Kevin’s parents. It already existed since 1973. Nicky let us pet some lions and leopards (behind the fence of course), so this was really awesome. In the evening we got some nice lasagne. While we thought we would only get free accommodation, it was actually all-inclusive. Chipangali works with a lot of volunteers who mostly work there for several weeks. They are all welcomed in the family of this lovely couple, as were we. We had dinner and breakfast in the common restaurant of the orphanage and lunch was served at their house, which was right behind the orphanage. Here we could also get in any time to get something to eat or drink. They were really open and welcoming us into their life.
The next day François made a lot of pictures and we got into contact with a lot of animals. For example I petted a lion and some leopards from outside the cage. Also we stepped into the cage of a serval. It’s some kind of big housecat; luckily for us his behaviour was similar to a housecat, as he wanted to get attention all the time. His sister was less friendly by the way.
We learned that Chipangali Wildlife Orphanage does not only nurture wounded animals and try to get them back into the wild, they also visit schools to educate and do research towards animals in the nearby parks.
After two nights, we decided it was time to continue our road trip to the famous Victoria Falls.
Luckily for us, these officials were very friendly and helpful (which was a complete opposite of when we were entering Mozambique.) The visa official told us we could also pay the visa with South African Rand (450 rand for 1 visa.) We still had some dollars left (after telling the hotel lady we only had 200 rand), but it was 400. So we took all the coins (we always put the coins in the middle console of the car) and gathered 50 rand worth of coins. Happily we handed over the bills and coins but after a while the official said they didn’t accept coins. Then he told us that a colleague was going to South Africa and he still had a bill of 50 rand, so he was kind enough to change it for our coins. This way we could pay one visa with rand, so we only had to pay the rest in US dollars (85).
Luckily they accepted our US$80. As you probably have calculated yourself, we were still US$5 short. With no more dollars, only a couple of rand in coins, the last resort that we had were 350 Meticals (US$4,50 or something) or two bills of €5, so one way or another we would make it. Then another official said that he would take the 350 Meticals from us and give us a US$5 bill, if we would take his female friend with us, to the next town (180km.) So we agreed with this official and we finished the last of our Meticals as well.
The two border posts had cost us 2 hours, but we could finally continue our road trip into Zimbabwe.
The girl (named Caro) we had to take with us was friendly and we talked about all kind of things. She liked traveling as well, specially to the United Arabic Emirates and she was going to do some study in the UK. Caro also told us that it could well be possible that we were the only ones crossing that border post on that particular day. That explained why the first 140km were sand roads as well, but all in good condition.
When we dropped Caro at the crossing, she had another 150km to hitchhike in the direction where we were not heading. We continued our way to the Great Zimbabwe Monument. The plan was to visit this place and continue straight after to Bulawayo, to visit a project (Chipangali) of my internship company. This would take us a total of 10-hour drive and give us 1-2 hours to spend at the Great Zimbabwe Monument. However with the 2-hour delay at the border we would have to make a stop between Great Zimbabwe Monument and Chipangali.
Finally we arrived at the Great Zimbabwe Monument and we took a guide (named Lovemo) to show us around and actually learn something about this World Heritage Site. This seemed a very smart move, since he told us a lot about it. For example Zimbabwe means Great (Zi) House(mba) of Stone(bwe). The Great Zimbabwe Monument was once (11th-15th century) a big flourishing city of 25.000 citizens. The wealthiest king who lived there during its golden area had 200 wifes! (damn, I can’t even handle one wife.) Kings here get compared with mountains; so this king truly was a mountain. Lovemo explained to us why houses were always made of stray. First of all it was to prevent evil spirits to get stuck in the corners of a house. Secondly it was so it could deflect the wind more easy. Lastly, round things are seen as harmonious and equality, everybody in the family is equal. The site also contained a (created) village, to show how the people lived back then. Here we could (of course) buy souvenirs and have the locals showed a dance. We watched it and François even joined the dance.
The royal and other buildings were made out of stone bricks without the use of any form of cement. So they are lying lose on top of each other and a lot is still standing there today, centuries later.
After we finished our tour Lovemo asked us if we wanted to have dinner in the ghetto of Masvingo and sleep in the tentcamp of Great Zimbabwe Monument. Since it was already 17:00 we couldn’t get much further anyhow. Therefor we decided to accept Lovemo’s offer. We went to the ghetto to have a US$1 dinner, then he took us to a bar and afterwards to a club. After some beers, Lovemo appeared to be a really good dancer. While we had to be in Bulawayo already, we had a really good night with Lovemo in Masvingo. The next day early I spoke with our (only) neighbour who already packed his stuff and was heading for vic falls. It was a Danish fellow of almost 50 and he was traveling alone with a nice looking old-timer and tent. After the conversation, we packed our tent (with a hangover) at around 8 and we continued our way to Bulawayo.
After a couple of hours drive we arrived at the Chipangali Wildlife Orphanage. This is a project, which has a partnership with my internship company. I had promised my boss that we would take some pictures here, to improve the part of website about Chipangali. In return we would get free accommodation. Upon arrival we got a tour from Nicky, the wife of Kevin. This friendly couple owned the wildlife orphanage and they got it from Kevin’s parents. It already existed since 1973. Nicky let us pet some lions and leopards (behind the fence of course), so this was really awesome. In the evening we got some nice lasagne. While we thought we would only get free accommodation, it was actually all-inclusive. Chipangali works with a lot of volunteers who mostly work there for several weeks. They are all welcomed in the family of this lovely couple, as were we. We had dinner and breakfast in the common restaurant of the orphanage and lunch was served at their house, which was right behind the orphanage. Here we could also get in any time to get something to eat or drink. They were really open and welcoming us into their life.
The next day François made a lot of pictures and we got into contact with a lot of animals. For example I petted a lion and some leopards from outside the cage. Also we stepped into the cage of a serval. It’s some kind of big housecat; luckily for us his behaviour was similar to a housecat, as he wanted to get attention all the time. His sister was less friendly by the way.
We learned that Chipangali Wildlife Orphanage does not only nurture wounded animals and try to get them back into the wild, they also visit schools to educate and do research towards animals in the nearby parks.
After two nights, we decided it was time to continue our road trip to the famous Victoria Falls.
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Je kunt nu ook Smileys gebruiken. Via de toolbar, toetsenbord of door eerst : te typen en dan een woord bijvoorbeeld :smiley
